Au revoir.

Today is our last day in Paris. Cliff will actually be leaving this afternoon (thank you travel rules) and Alexa & I tomorrow morning. I anticipate a day filled to the brim of absorbing the ambiance here, which probably means strolling, bread and pain au chocolate.

I did have to include one photo from yesterday which most will wonder why. We stumbled upon this in the nearby Jardin des Plantes while going to the train station...a huge map of France! I think they are getting ready for Geography Week which starts this week. (I wish I had brought my GIS t-shirt for ArcNews...yes, being a map maker, I get excited about this. If we had time, I'd go to the current whale exhibit here for my fellow-hallway-scientists as well.)

Traveling does wonder for geography lessons even in this world that seems to be getting smaller and more homogenized. This trip brings back the wonder and joy of being somewhere else, learning and observing. It would be an instant reality check for so many to find themselves not at the center of things (however I hope to find the center of France marker in front of Notre Dame today.)

I'm also loading some of Alexa's favorite images although we are still searching postcard stands to find some more of her favorite paintings. (I know some of these are poor/blurry but it was the best she could take without flash and our camera).

So here's to France, maps, home and a whole lot more hope than we've been used to!

Versailles for a picnic.

We looked up the forecast (sunny all day) and ventured beyond (kind of) out of Paris for Versailles. In retrospect, Cliff thinks he may have been seeing the Paris-Texas forecast as it drizzled all day. Still that is better than Oregon coast weather but we left the coats and umbrellas back in the apartment. This time of year, the best of a Versailles visit is the inside since the gardens are pretty bare so it all worked out. I do keep marveling at how easy it is to travel about such a grand city, train-metro-bus always nearby and easy.

We brought along a little picnic and at the last moment I picked up my first pain au chocolat (chocolate croissant). Oh what I have been missing....the bread is fabulous but this is heaven.

When you leave the train station to venture forth to the palace of elegance, you are greeted with McDonalds & Starbucks (I wish I was kidding). Fortunately I still could walk quickly and we strolled up to the gold-gilded gates. (At least I don't think they are solid gold!). Versailles is immense, although it used to encompass 7800 hectacres and now only is ~800). We toured the main palace which included the king & queen's rooms (where Marie Antoinette initially escaped the revolutionary mob through a side-door) and Marie's (we're on first name basis now) little enclave where she had her own mini-palace and country hamlet so she could play milkmaid. Alexa really liked the idea of having a play-town instead of a playroom!

The gardens have great bones (Sharon would appreciate this) but you can tell that you really need to be here in the summer to fully appreciate it. The beds had all been turned over for the winter and none of the fountains operate. In the grand canal, families were renting boats and local teenagers were practicing in their rowing sculls. In parts of the grounds, various cub scout groups were playing games and families with baby carriages or bicycles were everywhere (it is Saturday).

We had a lovely picnic sitting on the steps of the palace (shielded under a doorway) overlooking the gardens. Alexa ate some cheese (!!!)...she said I could not post any of the pictures of this event (I admit, Cliff did bribe her). People watching is always great fun and Alexa has been enjoying feeding birds (but still gets a bit anxious the closer they get).

In the end we were pretty cold and getting damp (still just misty-drizzle) and now I'll admit it...we went back to Starbucks where I got a venti Latte which I thoroughlly enjoyed on the train ride back. It was cold outside! Excuses-excuses.

A lovely stroll down 'our' street where we picked up some dinner and wine. Alexa had her first hot chocolate (they ran out the night before just before we got there). Alexa is now admiring her postcard collection of her favorite paintings while I'm downloading today's pictures (which I'll add after typing). I am starting to get sad thinking about tomorrow when Cliff will be leaving in the evening and we then leave the next morning. I thought I would want to go to Italy on our next adventure but may have to come back to Paris first. We haven't seen but a tiny fraction, including some performances, but this is a place one will always long to return to. I can't wait but we will make the most of our last day.

Au revoir!

Oh those shoes.

I have never seen so many pointy-toe, spike heeled shoes walking around, ever. And walking isn't just on pristine concrete as there are cobble-stones, dirt and narrow-narrow streets/curbs/sidewalks everywhere. Their pointed shoes are so pointed at the toe that a size 5 looks like a 10 (note: not very attractive but admirable). Not walking slow, actually briskly, how do these women do it?? I lasted 8.5 hours in 2-inch, stubby-heeled boots. I was practically crippled after our first day here but didn't actually feel the whole extent of it until we were headed back to the barn. Then I gave out. My family had to to find dinner and bring it back (Cliff navigated his way back successfully!).

We had an excellent few days in Paris. We bought the Paris Museum Pass for 2 days which allowed us unlimited access to the many museums. We went back to the Louvre again to look for the mummies (discovered it was only one mummy and not mummy-cats like the British Museum, oh well). Day 2 involved the Cluny (medieval, unicorn tapestries), Louvre 2 (mummies), Orangerie (grand scale Monet water lillies), Arch de Triumphe (stairs/views), Orsay (Impressionist). Whew, can't believe we did all of that after day 1 (Pantheon/Notre Dame/Louvre).

So tired out, no time/energy for blog-ville. (I still think blogging is strange). Today was supposed to be a bit more low-key. We strolled (I changed shoes) and enjoyed the ambience. We did venture into the big French department store (Bon Marche) and the food court was extensive as was the children's/toy department. Our big event was the Eiffel Tower which we should have bagged since it was evident the weather wasn't great (our first non-sunny day with low clouds/fog) so the view was
very limited. But Alexa found 2 carousels that were still operating nearby which made her day. Then we got on a bus (yeah!) which provided a great scenic ride from the tower, along the Seine, back to Notre Dame. We strolled down a narrow, cobble street filled with lights and people and somehow ended up on the street back to our neighborhood. We had a light meal at a Brassiere, picked up some after dinner pastries are relaxing with some wine. Our little market street is so beautiful now as they just strung a zillion little blue twinkling lights all above the center, looks like a
rippling wave and did all the trees in the main square.

It is the city of light....what a sight!

Paris.

We are in Paris!

Getting to our last home-away-from-home was tiring (up at 5am, long stop at Madrid airport,
figuring out the RER train from Orly, getting turned around to find our apartment...) but we are in Paris. It was only a couple of blocks of walking (with way too much baggage) that I looked behind us and there was the Eiffel Tower. I thought we were going to be too far to see it on a daily basis but there it is.

We are staying in the 5th arrondissemont, the Latin Quarter, Left Bank, near the Pantheon and a block off of Rue Moueffetard (pedestrain street known for all of its great eating places, shops). It is also near the Sorbonne (part of the University of Paris) so its alive with people.

We are renting an apartment on the pedestrain-only Rue Rollin which we found on vrbo.com. It is called "My little home in Paris" by its owners Sandi et Phillipe. It is perfect for us, completely full of everything you could need to get going the first day (wine, snacks, flowers, toiletries...they have thought of everything). In the morning I just pop down the street and get fresh bread for breakfast while making some coffee.

The first night we ventured up and down our lively little neighborhood and settled upon a kid-friendly Italian restaurant (pasta for Alexa which she thoroughlly enjoyed) and then had an early evening to rest for our first big day.

A big day it was...I can't believe I actually got tired by 8pm...I was so bummed at myself. We walked and walked, there is so much to see. (We had planned to take the metro but I wanted to be up where we could see everything). We first visited the Pantheon to get a little history of Paris and St. Genevieve. Then on down to Notre Dame, crossing the Seine and meandering the shops. We made it to the top of the bell tower of Notre Dame...400 steps up on hard, stone stairs which primarily were narrow spiral staircases. Oh but the view...so fabulous. The gargoyles were very interesting. Alexa liked the gargoyles but turns out, doesn't like heights at all (hmmm, what to do with the Eiffel Tower?!?) and she also doesn't like crypts/dead people.

We had a light lunch in a park near the Hotel de Ville from boulangerie snacks (foccacia...have to say it was better than Panninis). Alexa had her eye on some traditional berets which she scouted out the stalls for the best price (a chip off the block). She looks adorable wearing it.

Next was our big foray into the Louvre. It is really big and we got lost trying to find the mummies. We got side-tracked by the Greek, Roman and other Egyptian statues/galleries and never found the actual mummies before getting tired. We decided we'd better head for the French & Italian galleries to see Mona. She looked a bit differently displayed than the D'Vinci movie fame but still as mysterious.


She commands the room which is filled with paintings larger than our house although she is quite demure in size.

Somewhere along the way, it turned dark outside so we decided to walk back and find something to eat along the way. There is something to see everywhere (especially when you are constantly rechecking your bearings). Note...everyone seems to be carrying a map or guidebook, it is hard to tell the tourists from the locals. We walked through the St. Germain art gallery district where we could peer in all the windows (a new museum!) and ended up back on rue Moeffetard. It was at this point, knowing home was a block away, that my legs/feet had enough. We ate at a creperie (wow..a gallette grec--so much feta, olives, tomato) and then had dessert at home (oh yea, bought some truffles somewhere, pastries, bread, wine, etc.)

We are savoring our day as midnight approaches. Wish I could have been outside on the streets even later but there is tomorrow.

Au revoir.

Back to Portugal

Now this is more like it...getting to stop and see some castles on the way back to Portugal.
But first we wondered about Merida a bit more.

Unfortunately the Roman museum was closed as we missed it yesterday (closed early, but was free on Sundays) and closed on Mondays. We'll have to save that for another time. Also Alexa's store was closed so she was unable to buy some earrings she had eyed the day before. Instead we got lost trying to find the main post office..it almost became an epic journey and it was right there in the middle of everything. Had to recover by having another drink on the plaza...this is the life.

Alexa was a bit worn out so we decided to basically go back the way we had come (but with stops!). Remember the aqueduct we had a picnic at (Elvas), well the castle walls above the town was really spectacular. They even preserved the drawbridge entrance and it was just wide enough for a little car (you had to honk of course, since it was a 2-way street!). From the top, you could see the aqueduct and the huge wall (double walls) encircling the town. There was some other church with its own wall just up on another hill joined to this hill. All from the Moors. It was great to scramble along the walls and enjoying the view.

Next we got to stop at Vila Vicosa...where the last Portugal royal family had come from (Braganca). The town had streets lined with orange trees and beautiful villas. A Moorish castle was on the high part of town which then overlooked the palace. In front of the castle was the town's old whipping post which Alexa really enjoyed (as long as she was the whipper, not the whippee).
Also marble was mined in this area so the streets, buildings, sidewalks all were lined with marble. The hills of marble being mined and slabs ready for shipment were impressive.

We then meandered over to Redondo which is a center for a particular kind of pottery which I had seen in Sintra. They were doing some road work so we couldn't really get to the artisans except for one. The pottery in preparation reminded me of the artist from Eugene that Katy features in her gallery. One of the few times I had wished we had been travelling in high season so we could have seen more artists.

We wound our way around back to the highway through forests of cork and eucalyptus (passed a huge convent now a pousada) as the sun set to the west. We dropped off our rental car (incredibly inexpensive) and hunkered down in the hotel, finishing up all picnic goodies. Anticipating our 5am wake up for the flight to Paris.

Paris...can't believe it is tomorrow.

Boa noite and a bonjour.

When in Spain, do as the Romans!

Ok, we got the saying a bit turned around...

It is a bit odd that we specifically went to Spain to visit ancient Rome. Merida is a world heritage site due to its very well preserved Roman ruins and they are spectacular. Some date from 1 BC…that’s right, a bit older than what we’re used to in Newport, Oregon.

We are here on a Sunday with very few visitors which makes it great for snapping photos and crawling around the ruins. We began with the Amphitheater House which had wonderful mosaic tile floors still in place. We especially liked the one dedicated to marine animals (lobster, fish, etc.)…can’t help ourselves. Another depicted a wine harvest with cherubs and animals and joining the rooms were patterned hallways with mosaic designs. Alexa did like visiting the home’s own mausoleum which had ancient tables for preparing the dead as well as numerous burial chambers. The water system is really incredible with hot and cold systems as well as wastewater. This family had to be fairly well to-do with many rooms. The adjacent amphitheater still has some of the original stands (they also have recreated some) and the performers chambers. The cross-like center floor was where the animals were kept prior the ‘games’.

Next was our favorite (and probably most people’s), the theater. Large marble columns and reproduction statues (the orginals are in the adjacent museum). You can really imagine the plays and performances. There were excavations still underway all around this area with another house structure which still had partial murals visible.

After so much Rome, we headed back to the main plaza for drink & rest. Lots of families today with many browsing the shops. We gathered our strength and headed out for a walk along the river to view the old Roman bridges and original aqueduct. It was eerily deserted along the river but there were playgrounds and paths. One place had kid’s bicycles for rent but no customers.
The aqueduct was beautiful with the blue sky in the background and all the storks & nest on the top-most arches. We got a bit lost and ended up crossing the railroad tracks at the station and a police officer appeared to help us back (at least we weren’t the only ones as a couple of other tourists did the same thing!).

Being Sunday, not many things were open so we headed back to the hotel in hopes some restaurants would open in the evening…they didn’t. We walked all over the old section and ended up with some of the roasted chestnuts (Alexa had found another food she will eat!). Went all the ways back to the hotel to a seafood restaurant which had fabulous swordfish & steak. We ordered one mystery item which was morros con tomate. Turns out it was pig’s cheeks in tomatoes! We thought it would be some kind of seafood…oh well.

A wonderful day in Spain’s Rome!

Driving to Spain

Today we leave our first home-away-from-home, Sesimbra, to travel to Merida, Spain. Cliff and I had visited Merida over a dozen years ago and fell in love with it. Back then we had been following along the Rick Steve's Spain-Portugal recommended route but dared to venture off the path to visit Caceras and Merida...oh so daring! What was the attraction? Promise of Roman ruins dating to 1 BC!

But first we had to pack...we had gotten way too comfortable after almost a week. We hadn't bought anything new and yet the bags didn't seem to want to contain everything again. So we got a bit later start than anticipated and that explained why Cliff wouldn't stop at all the castles & ruins we passed on the way. Andra was practicing for her RV-days by clicking photos from the car windows of the castles on the hills. We also were on the Wine Route with many signs beckoning us to stop for a taste, no such luck. We had to settle for eating a picnic lunch at the base of an ancient aqueduct (c. 1450's, a youngster!) in Elvas, Portugal. Pretty cool.

We arrived in Merida in the afternoon and discovered we lost an hour to a time change. We walked around the old part of town, peering into the ancient ruins but waiting for the next day for a visit. We did see a bullring but have no plans to see a bull fight. We did have drinks in the classic town plaza while kids ran about and people lounged at all the little tables. I love this about Spain. Alexa was so glad to see kids for a change (they all seemed to be hiding in Sesimbra even after the school day) and bought a little ball to kick around the plaza like the other kids. We had a great time peering into the stores lining the pedestrian-only streets adjoing the plaza. Spain seems to have shoe stores like Portugal has pastry shops. Hmm, wonder if we'll get to do some shopping (you would not believe all the cute boots!).

All that travel (must have been at least 3 hours in the car), wore us out. We bought some food at the supermarket across from our hotel and had an early evening. We just couldn't muster ourselves to stay up until 10pm to go out for dinner!

Buenos noches.